American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Huandoy Oeste amd a Peak in the Aguja Nevada Group

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1974

Huandoy Oeste and a Peak in the Aguja Nevada Group. The Poles Eugeniusz Chrobak, Tadeusz Laukajtys, Wojciech Szymanski and Ludwik Wilczynski made a new route, the south buttress of Huandoy Oeste (20,853 feet), on July 25 to 27. It is a rock-snow-ice route of Grade V difficulty. From the Parón valley on August 7 Roman Gutkowski and Witold Jurkowski climbed what they claimed was the first ascent of “Agujita” (5550 meters or 18,209 feet) by its south buttress. (The Editor can not identify the peak, but believes they must have climbed the Aguja Nevada Chica (5560 meters), which was first ascended by the Swiss in 1959. We have not yet received a full report from the expedition.)

Halina Cieplinska-Bojorska, Klub Wysokogórski, Poland

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