South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Huandoy Sur, South Face Attempt

Publication Year: 1974.

Huandoy Sur, South Face Attempt. Stevie Docherty, Sam Crymble, Ian Nicholson, Don Higgins, Ian Singleton and I as leader arrived in the Blanca on June 27. Camp I on the easterly moraine below the face was stocked by June 29. On the 30th we made an abortive sortie across the glacier, which was heavily crevassed and under deep snow. It was too slow and dangerous; I think many new crevasses may have opened since the earthquake of 1970 since Bathgate reported easy going in 1968. From July 1 to 3 we moved Camp I onto the westerly moraine ridge. We found a way through the still badly crevassed glacier, which needed ladders in parts. Throughout this period nightly snowfalls added perhaps a foot of snow per day to the glacier. Winds to 50 to 60 mph would have eliminated face climbing if we had been already installed on the top of the 1500-foot snow and ice ramp. Our decision to ascend the west ridge while waiting was ruled out by continuous high winds. When in the third week of July there was no improvement in the conditions, we stripped the mountain and began the long trip home.

Roelof Schipper, Scotland