American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Colombia, Sierra Nevada de Santa Maria

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1974

Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta. Dobbs Hartshorne and I approached the range in July 1972 in three days via San Sebastián from the southwest to Lago Naboba, the site of our Base Camp. This route is superior to the usual, southeast approach, via Atanquez, the way we hiked out. We made two new routes. We climbed Pico Santander (5540 meters or 18,176 feet) via the east ridge and continued to the summit of Pico Bolívar (5775 meters or 18,947 feet) via the connecting knife-edged ridge, descending by way of the east ridge of the latter peak. We bivouacked a few hundred feet from the summit to have daylight to descend the unstable ice and snow cliffs of the ridge. The ridge led to a col and a glacier which took us to the valley in which we had our high camp. A few days later, we climbed the north ridge of El Guardián (5285 meters or 17,338 feet) and descended the west ridge.

Curt Saville, Juilliard Mountain Club

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