American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, Greenland, Upernivik Island, West Greenland

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1974

Upernivik Island, West Greenland. Our expedition climbed on Uper- nivik Island at 71° N., north and south of the Sermeq Qiterdleq Glacier. We were Daniel Bidaurreta, leader, Iñaki Tapia, Dr. Miguel Valencia, Javier Aldaya, Abel Alvira, José Ignacio Ariz, Javier Garreta, Angel Martínez, Carlos Santaquiteria and I. The peaks which are not marked with an asterisk (*) were first climbed by expeditions from the University of St. Andrew, Scotland, in 1967 or 1969. We established a high camp on the Sermeq Qiterdleq Glacier at 3775 feet. We made the following ascents north of that glacier on the ridge that separates it from the Qungulertussup Sermia: Palup Qaqa (6893 feet; highest point on the island) on July 10 by G. Ariz, Valencia, Alvira, Aldaya via Scottish route; Iglordssuit* (5742 feet) on July 12 by J.I. Ariz, Santaquiteria, Tapia; P 1820* (5977 feet; “Cima Navarra”) via west ridge on July 14 by G. Ariz, Aldaya; “Right Fingernail”* of Palup (2460 feet) on July 21 by G. Ariz, Alvira via the difficult west rock face; “Left Fingernail” of Palup (2560 feet) on July 21 by G. Ariz, Alvira via new route, west dihedral. South of the Sermeq Qiterdleq on the ridge that separates it from the Quvnertussup Sermia we climbed the following: Gorm (6070 feet) on July 11 by Garreta, Alvira, Valencia, Tapia via Scottish route; Trinculo (6004 feet) on July 16 by Tapia, Valencia, Bidaurreta, Alvira, Garreta via new difficult route, west ridge; West Spur of Gnomen on July 19 by J.I. Ariz, Tapia, Aldaya, a 1000-foot difficult rock climb; a traverse of Trinculo, Akaru*, Triboda, Gnomen, Merdor, Hammer, Tongs, Ybass on July 20 and 21 by Santaquiteria, Martínez, Garreta.

Gregorio Ariz Martínez, Club Deportista Nivarra, Spain

* First ascent.

* The Editor has translated the Spanish names given by the expedition.

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