American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, Greenland, Staunings Alps

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1974

Staunings Alps. The Cambridge Staunings Expedition consisted of K.J. Miller, leader, A.W. Billinghurst, E.W. Smith and me. We arrived in Greenland on July 9, at Mesters Vig airstrip via Reykjavik in Iceland. The approach to the heart of the Staunings took five days, a memorable mountain journey over the Mellem Pass, passing the snout of the Schuchert and Lang glaciers, to Base Camp on the Roslin Glacier snout. From here and from a base some 15 miles up the Roslin various scientific studies were undertaken, including a plane-table survey and a survey of stakes planted in the glacier surface, to enable ice flow rates to be calculated. Three peaks were ascended, including a virgin peak (c. 2100 meters or 7890 feet) in atrocious weather by E.W. Smith and me on July 30. This summit was situated on the true left of a previously unvisited glacier between the Lang and Roslin. Four days were spent away from Base Camp during this ascent, during which time visibility was never greater than a few yards! Dalmore Junior, a snow peak at the junction of the Roslin and Dalmore glaciers, provided an excellent practice climb for Billinghurst and me before we made the second ascent of Boulder Peak by a new rock route. All four members of the expedition made the long journey down the Schuchert Dal to the coast of Nordvest Fjord, at Sydhap.

Rodney A. Smith, Cambridge University

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