American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, Canada, Interior Ranges, Snowpatch Spire, West Face, Bugaboos

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1974

Snowpatch Spire, West Face, Bugaboos. This is one of two new routes done by parties attempting to find a route of Greenwood’s. The route that Jon Jones and I did in July is to the right of the McCarthy or normal rappel route. It follows a prominent left-facing open-book which starts halfway up. To reach the base, scramble up a right-leaning groove below the corner. From here an easy fifth-class pitch continues up a corner. Before the end of this, traverse left and up to a stance at the base of a steep crack. Three pitches of cracks and underclings end on a large, grassy platform. On the next pitch a very delicate traverse to the left (15 feet) leads into the main corner. From the platform, lay- back up the corner and then chimney behind a pinnacle to a stance. The next pitch is the crux: after catching my first 80-foot fall, I judiciously placed nuts to get up an extremely steep thin layback. From there one more moderate pitch leads to the top. The climb has seven pitches, the last six of which are 5.8 or harder.

Sibylle Hechtel, Unaffiliated

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