American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, Canada, Interior Ranges, The "Egyptian Peaks," Commander Group

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1974

The “Egyptian Peaks”, Commander Group. In late July John Jeglum and I, together with our families, drove about 9 miles up the recently improved Jumbo Creek road to the old logging camp along the north terminal fork of Jumbo Creek at 5500 feet. From a family-car camp there, John and I made first ascents of 5 of the 8 rock and snow peaks north of Jumbo Pass, which we named after early Egyptian gods. On July 28 we ascended 9200-foot “Mount Isis” and 9100-foot “Mount Storus” via an east glacier and east face to the long irregular south ridge. Then on July 31 we climbed the most spectacular peak of the subgroup, 9550-foot “Mount Amen-Ra” via its east glacier and north ridge, and then traversed north over 9200-foot “Mount Atmu” and 9400-foot “Mount Osiris”. The rock on all the peaks was very delightful third- and fourth-class granite and/or quartzite. How such an accessible group of impressive rock peaks remained untouched for so long is a real mystery, but many fine fifth-class routes still remain for the adventurous. A more detailed account will appear in the Canadian Alpine Journal.

Curt Wagner

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