North America, Canada, Interior Ranges, Adamant, Gothic, and Sir Sandford Groups, Northern Selkirks

Publication Year: 1974.

Adamant, Gothic and Sir Sandford Groups, Northern Selkirks. Twelve members and friends of the Dartmouth Mountaineering Club spent three weeks climbing out of Fairy Meadow and Great Cairn Cabins and a camp on the upper Austerity Glacier. Although food and equipment were brought in by helicopter, we entered and left the mountains on foot along Swan Creek. The new Mica Creek Dam, however, makes a boat necessary to reach the base of Swan Creek. The following new routes or variations were climbed: northwest face of Little Blackfriar on August 2 to 4 by T. Davis, P. Koch (This route follows the obvious crack system leading directly to the summit, trending left just below the top.), 17 pitches, NCCS V, F8, A2; south ridge of Adamant on July 31 by Davis, B. Gierke (The route starts from the Adamant-Blackfriar col and ascends the ridge, keeping to the right but well away from the couloir of the first-ascent route.), NCCS IV, F7; west face of Ironman on August 3 by P. Gilbert, K. Swift, NCCS II, F6; north ridge of east summit of Adamant on July 28 by M. Field, Gierke (From Fairy Meadows the route ascends the snow ridge to the right of the Stickle-Adamant col. Instead of climbing the obvious snow slope on the west to gain the ridge, we climbed the rock at the very base due to a difficult bergschrund.), NCCS IV, F4; Pioneer Peak on July 7 by M. Paine, C. Winship (Route ascends a narrow ice gully to the left of the Colliver-Jones route.), NCCS III; northeast arête of Sentinel on July 25 by Field, R. Holsapple, Winship (The route begins to the left of Nester’s route up the northwest couloir.), NCCS II, F3; west arête of Outpost Peak on July 25 by Koch, Gierke (The arête lies between routes 1 and 2.), NCCS II, F6; north ridge of Sir Sandford on August 7 by Davis, Gierke (From Great Cairn, the route ascends the rock buttress leading to the left edge of the hanging glacier on the north face and then up the ridge to the summit. Bad rock.), NCCS IV, F8.

B. Gierke, Dartmouth Mountaineering Club