Andromeda, North Face to the West Summit. Bugs McKeith and I made this new* route on August 12. The route makes a fairly direct line up the rock and ice face. We crossed the bergschrund well to the right. A long traverse left under the first rock wall led into the center of the face, where there is plenty of scope for variation on ice averaging from 50° to 55° with short steeper sections. Rock belays can nearly always be found.
Sibylle Hechtel, Unaffiliated
*Unknown to this pair, Jeff Lowe had made the same route solo a couple of weeks ahead of them.