North America, Canada, Canadian Rockies, Siffleur Wilderness

Publication Year: 1974.

Siffleur Wilderness. On July 23 Bill Putnam and I returned to an area near where we had climbed in 1972. We were joined by Frank Morrey, Art MacKenzie, Lisa Wardlow, Gordon Smith, Peter Vlasveld, Lindsay Fawcett and Sepp Renner. Our trek started over the new footbridge across the North Saskatchewan, 1¼ miles south of the Two O’Clock Campground turnoff on the David Thompson Highway. After a long day of hiking, we established camp near the junction of the Siffleur River and Porcupine Creek at 5400 feet. On July 23 one group of us climbed via the west face of the Siffleur Mountain massif, using a snow gully to ascend a 9600-foot pinnacle. The second group ascended the southwest ridge to climb two pinnacles of 9800 feet. A Topographical Survey team had climbed the main 10,266-foot summit in 1924. The next day we traveled 15 miles up Porcupine Creek to 6300 feet, two miles above Porcupine Lake. On July 25 Putnam, Morrey, Smith, MacKenzie, Faw cett and I traversed several pinnacles west of camp. We first climbed a gully leading to a 9500-foot peak and dropped over the ridge northwest to traverse a 50° snowfield to gain access to other peaks. Beyond the snowfield we headed southwest for two more 9000-foot peaks with rotten rock and much exposure. We were finally able to ascend two more peaks of 9100 feet and one of 9469 feet. The next day we crossed the 8000-foot pass east of Mount Noyes and traveled down to the head of Silverhorn Creek. On July 27 we ascended east to a gulch leading to the ridge blocking the head of the Silverhorn valley where we scrambled south over some easy peaks before retreating by way of the south fork of Silverhorn Creek and thence to the Banff-Jasper highway.

Edward A. Johann