Mount Maxwell. After arriving at Kluane Lake on August 5, for a week we packed our loads along Slims River and up the Kaskawulsh Glacier to its confluence with the South Arm. On August 15 Jean Bertucca, Jeannine Carrette, Eliane Hoste, Monique Larmoyer, Bruno Martinetti, Christian Michalski, François Mordant, Maurice Nonde, Régine Pasero and I left camp southeast of Mount Maxwell a short way up the South Arm and ascended a rocky valley to the east. The glacier became very crevassed. We progressed through several icefalls and climbed steeper slopes. We kept on and got to a snowy dome (c. 9000 feet) near the principal summit, which had a rocky ridge. On August 27 the same group plus Gérald Fize, Alain Mercier and Roland Mougel but minus Mme Pasero left the South Arm Camp. After crossing the South Arm and ascending a tributary glacier, we reached an 8000-foot col by means of easy slopes. We started up the north ridge of Kaskawulsh Mountain but unstable snow conditions forced us onto a spur of rotten rock. Progress was slow and difficult. Higher we got back onto frozen snow and reached the northern summit (not the highest) (c. 10,300 feet). To make the descent easier, we found a route on the steep north face. On August 19 the Kaskawulsh group plus Mme Pasero and Annick Touvet headed northeast from South Arm Camp. After steep climbing, we got to a broad 8000-foot col. By not too steep slopes we climbed to the left to join the southeast ridge of Mount Maxwell. The narrow ridge had excellent snow and led us soon to the summit (c. 10,300 feet). On August 20 we left the same camp and ascended the moraine to the southeast (some 3 miles south of Maxwell) to a ridge where progress was easy. Above snow line three of us felt tired and stopped, but Martinetti, Bertucca, Mlle Hoste and Mordant reached the rocky summit of about 9350 feet, some 500 yards southwest of the snowy dome.

Jacques Rouillard, Club Alpin Français