Mount Logan West Peak on Skis. The Tokai University Alpine Club party was composed of Yoshio Ohkubo, Kiyoshi Takabayashi, Junichi Saito and me. On the afternoon of May 16 we flew by jet helicopter across the “green kingdom of wild animals” and landed in the world of snow white at 11,000 feet in the King Trench. The route up to King Col had no special difficulties. On May 24 we finally set up camp there. We had only one fine day until then. We had two unusual consecutive fine days on May 30 and 31. In the crevassed area at 15,000 feet we set up Camp II in a snow cave. After being beaten back by storms, on June 18 we were in Camp III at 18,500 feet. Fortunately the clouds over the ridges cleared and a high point appeared above the clouds. Looking around on the top of that sharp peak, we saw no higher peaks around us. We skied the whole way down except for the crevassed area. After we returned to Japan, the Shensu Alpine Club in Osaka, which had succeeded in traversing from the east to the west ridges after our ski down, revealed that we had mistaken the west peak for the higher central peak. The latter had been hidden from us in the clouds.

Keiji Shimazu, Japanese Alpine Club