American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, Canada, Yukon Territory, Mount Logan

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1974

Mount Logan. We did the standard King Col route on Mount Logan with camps in the King Trench (10,700 feet), King Col (13,500 feet), at 15,500 feet, by the Arctic Institute research camp at 17,600 feet and west of the west peak at 18,200 feet. On June 30 Bill Glickman, Charlie Campbell, Bob Cormack, Bill Hamann, Jerry Hinkle, my wife Barbara and I traversed under the west peak and reached the main summit. We descended over the top of the west peak. We met a four-man Japanese ski expedition coming down as we were going up. They claimed to have skied right off the top after leaving their summit flag on top. We found their flag fluttering on the west peak, which they must have mistaken for the main summit, where we saw no signs of them.

Gerald A. Roach

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