North America, Canada, Yukon Territory, Mount Logan, East-West Traverse

Publication Year: 1974.

Mount Logan, East-West Traverse. We members of the Senshu Alpine Club traversed Mount Logan from east to west via the east, central and west peaks. The east-ridge party was composed of Tsuneo Ohnishi, Tomikazu Himemoto, Takeshi Itatani, Teruo Sakamoto and me as leader. We established Camp I on June 22 on the Hubbard Glacier at 7500 feet. We made the following camps on the east ridge: II, 8200 feet, June 23; III, 10,500 feet, June 27; IV, 13,125 feet, June 29; V, 15,750 feet, July 2; and on the plateau east of the east peak: VI, 16,725 feet, July 5 and VII, 18,375 feet, July 7. On July 6 Itatani and Sakamoto climbed the east peak. On July 8 all members of the east-ridge party reached the col between the east and central peaks over the east peak and established Camp VIII on the col at 18,700 feet. Meanwhile the west-ridge party composed of Norio Morisaka, deputy leader, Yoshio Miyahira, Katsuzo Hasegawa and Ryuichi Kimura had been climbing the normal route via King Col, although Morisaka had had to be evacuated to Kluane by the Arctic Institute of North America plane because of serious high-altitude sickness. The other three members of the west-ridge party reached Camp VIII also on July 8. On July 9 all eight traversed the central and west peaks. We descended to King Trench on July 14.

Hiroshi Kishimoto, Senshu Alpine Club, Osaka, Japan