American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Wyoming, South Teton, East Snow Couloir

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1974

South Teton, East Snow Couloir. On August 1, Jim Olson and Tom Watson made the first ascent of this couloir which has been in direct view of two generations of climbers. From the highway somewhat south of east, the prominent snow couloir can be seen to cut directly up the east slopes of the South Teton, ending on the southeast ridge about 300 feet below the summit. From a camp at Snowdrift Lake, Olson and Watson approached the couloir via the large gully separating the South Teton from Matternaught Peak to the large snowfield which abuts the south faces of Gilkey Tower and the Icecream Cone. Turning left (west) from this snowfield, they entered the couloir itself where a total of nine leads of moderate snow climbing were found. About two-thirds of the way up the couloir, a short rock wall capped by a chockstone presented the only rock problem of the route. It was passed on the left to reach the final three, increasingly steep, snow leads to the usually corniced top of the couloir. Some rockfall was encountered in the lower sections of the couloir. II, F5.

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