American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing
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North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Stonehouse Buttress, Southeast Face

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1974

Stonehouse Buttress, Southeast Face. The Milky Way Chimney, a new route on Stonehouse Buttress, was done on April 29 and 30 by Jack Roberts, Hooman Aprin, and me. The nine-pitch route duplicates a previously established route on the southeast face for 2½ pitches, then bears left and directly up the corner of the buttress. A classic, curving chimney, nearly two pitches in length, is the hardest and most unprotected situation on the route. The summit of the buttress was reached just before dark; night and rainfall made the descent through bush and rocks quite unpleasant. NCCS IV, F9, A3.

Fred Beckey

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