American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Sawtooth Peak, North Face

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1974

Sawtooth Peak, North Face. Because the nearly vertical profile of Sawtooth’s north face is very noticeable from the road approaching the Kaweah, then again nearing Mineral King, it seemed quixotic that climbers had not probed its defenses. On September 30, Greg Thomsen and I left our high camp at Columbine Lake, plodded up loose scree in the shadow of a cool morning, then spent until the early afternoon climbing a rather direct route on the precipitous face. Most of the route weaved up a series of steep blocks and cracks, with an occasional brief ledge to regain balance. A few aid pitons were placed. The only unpleasant feature were blocks that appeared possible to displace with careless leverage; needless to say, we displayed much tenderness at these moments, with the result that the blocks are still there. The climb is to be recommended. NCCS III, F7 or F8, Al.

Fred Beckey

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