American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing
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North America, United States, Washington, Cascade Mountains, Forbidden Peak, Northwest Face

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1974

Forbidden Peak, Northwest Face. This very aesthetic alpine route combines a good short ice climb on the west face of the north ridge with the very enjoyable rock climbing of the upper north-ridge route. The ice face is composed of two sections divided by a narrow constriction, the upper section ending at the cornice in the middle of the north ridge. After an initial difficult bergschrund the route consisted of approximately 900 feet of front pointing on hard, brittle ice covered by a thin layer of fresh snow reaching an angle of 50° on the upper section. This face had been entirely exposed ice the year before so it seems that this route should provide a good ice climb most years late in the season. Three hours were sufficient for a solo ascent from the Forbidden Glacier to the summit. Climb completed, August 23.

John Teasdale, Unaffiliated

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