American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Washington, Cascade Mountains, P 4245, "Exfoliation Dome" North of Helena Peak

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1974

P 4245, “Exfoliation Dome” north of Helena Peak. On September 15, the north ridge of this uncharacteristic granite formation a few miles south of Darrington was climbed by Greg Ball and me. Approach was from the west left of a slabby stream gully to a large tree on the ridge crest just below where the ridge steepens. A long free pitch on slabs and cracks on the ridge crest leads to a ledge beneath a twenty-foot wall. Two shorter pitches, on both of which we used some aid, led to the end

of the roped climbing. Several hundred feet of scrambling including a knife-edge traverse took us to the top. Time: five hours from the car. F7, A1. A selection of small nuts plus a blade or two are sufficient. This route probably involves less roped climbing than any other on the dome.

Bill Fryberger, Unaffiliated

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