American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Alaska, Doonerak and Other Peaks, Brooks Range

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1974

Doonerak and Other Peaks, Brooks Range. For three weeks in August, a Sierra Club climbing group visited the north fork of the Koyukuk region, which was initially explored by Robert Marshall in the 1930s. Despite extensive climbing in the area, Marshall’s several attempts on the highest peak, Doonerak (7610 feet), were unsuccessful. This was first climbed in 1952 by George Beadle, Gunnar Bergman, and Alfred Tis- sières, and was our main goal. Starting at Chimney Lake, out group hiked up Clear River and St. Patrick’s Creek to the north fork of the Koyukuk drainage, then up Ernie’s Creek to Anaktuvuk River, flying out from Anaktuvuk Pass. On August 18, from a camp on Binnyanaktuk Creek, Charles Hildebolt and Geoff Radford climbed Doonerak by its south ridge, finding no record of ascent since 1952. The ascent was repeated five days later by John Otter. On August 29, Hildebolt, Radford, and I climbed the second highest peak in the area, Cocked Hat (7410 feet), in continuous snow and poor visibility. We are unaware of any previous ascent. One technical rock route was done on the north ridge of P 6290, east of St. Patrick’s Creek (Gordon and Emily Benner, Hildebolt, Radford). Other peaks climbed were Chimney Mountain and Rock, Whiteface, Midnight Mountain, Wien Mountain, Amauk and Apoon. Other trip members were Chris Christensen, Fred Derose, Wim DeWit, Charles Funk, Bill Knowland, and Paul Studemeister.

Gordon Benner

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