American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Alaska, Mount Tom White, Chugach Mountains

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1974

Mount Tom White, Chugach Mountains. After eight leisurely days rafting down the Copper River from Chitina, we arrived at the terminus of the Miles Glacier. On June 18, after caching our river supplies, we six, Story Clark, Sarah Robey, Don White, Chris Hall, Tom Kizzia and I, started the 30-mile trudge up-glacier to the base of Mount Tom White. At 4000 feet we branched off onto the “Tom White Glacier” and followed it through minor icefalls and crevasse systems to our high camp at its head in a basin at 8000 feet. In front of us were two couloirs rising toward the unclimbed summit. After scouting the left one, which was cut by overhanging crevasses, we chose the right one, though it was steeper and scarred with avalanches. On June 29 we followed this to the summit slope in excellent weather. There we found a broad, ¼ -mile- long ridge joining two summits, the southwestern of which was higher. It took us six days to hike down to our cache on the river and another day to float to Flag Point near Cordova on the Pacific. Despite its reputation, the Chugach weather was perfect. We saw many spectacular peaks along the river and an incredible variety from Mount Tom White.

William Resor*, Unaffiliated

* Recipient of a Boyd N. Everett, Jr. Climbing Fellowship Grant.

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