American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Alaska, Mount Hayes

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1974

Mount Hayes. On May 12 Larry Small, Jim Johnson and I left the Richardson Highway at Donneley’s Inn, crossed the innocent-looking Delta River and were on the way to the east ridge of Mount Hayes. Although previously climbed, this ridge held our imagination with its clean line rising from the west fork of the Trident Glacier. Six days later we reached Base Camp on the Trident, where Lloyd Anderson of Delta Junction gave us our airdrop. By May 24 we were at Camp I on Levi’s Bump (named by first-ascent party in 1971. See A.A.J., 1972, 18:1, pp. 105-6), where we sat out a 36-hour gale. Gear losses forced a retreat, sadly a permanent one for Larry, whose crampon had disappeared. Jim and I established a high camp on May 31, 2800 feet below the summit. On June 3 we found a detached summit block surrounded by difficult crevasses and ice cliffs and so did not stand on the very top.

Dakers Gowans, Unaffiliated

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