American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

North America, United States, Alaska, Moose's Tooth, South Summit

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1974

Moose’s Tooth, South Summit. Dave Lunn, Dave O’Neil and I were flown by Cliff Hudson to the Ruth Glacier just west of the Moose’s Tooth. We then skirted the broken east edge of the Ruth by going south (right) and then northeast before ascending the prominent icefall on the west of the Moose’s Tooth, past séracs and an avalanche track. We then followed the more level upper part of this side glacier up over a snow ridge, turning east (left) to a broad basin below the main west couloir, where we camped. The couloir was dangerous as it avalanched frequently in the afternoon. Naturally we went up it in the very early morning. We found a very small spot to camp on between the north (main) and south summits of the Moose’s Tooth. Although we had intended to climb the main summit, climbing equipment left in the couloir was avalanched off and the weather was bad and so we merely reconnoitered the ridge to the face of the north summit and returned to camp. We climbed the south summit (10,070 feet) instead. The seven pitches were mixed rock and snow for the first half to the shoulder and snow and ice from there. From the basin we climbed a peak we called the “White Mushroom” on the southern edge of the basin. We climbed over the nearer and lower eastern summit to the main summit (7770 feet). On our return down the ice- fall we climbed the other summit just north of the “White Mushroom.” Hudson picked us up after we had been in the region 2½ weeks.

Margaret Young

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