American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing
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North America, United States, Alaska, Ascents in McKinley Park

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1974

Ascents in McKinley Park. As seasonal ranger, I took part in various climbs, many unsuccessful, in what proved to be a wet summer. In late June John Bryant and I climbed the west face of Fang Mountain (6736 feet) in marginal weather. We approached the mountain from the north up Savage River and camped at 5200 feet below the face. We walked out down the Sanctuary River. During a late July weekend, I walked up the west tributary of the East Fork of the Toklat River in misty weather. A sudden break in the cloud cover early the following morning spurred me to leave camp and climb P 7840 and P 7850 via the west glacier that straddles them. I continued traversing over Mount Pendleton (7810 feet) along its northwest ridge. The weather socked in as I continued climbing and I finally descended from P 7382 to the East Fork of the Toklat Glacier.

Steven W. Hackett

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