American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing
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North America, United States, Alaska, Mount McKinley

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1974

As always, we are very grateful to the Editorial Board and to those friends without whose unstinting assistance this section could not have been compiled. It is impossible to mention all who have helped who are not members of the Editorial Board. However, particular thanks are given to Dr. Adolf Diemberger, Dr. G.O. Dyhrenfurth, Colonel James O.M. Roberts, Michael Cheney, Kamal K. Guha, Soli S. Mehta, Ichiro Yoshi- zawa, César Morales Arnao, Ken Wilson, Vojslav Arko, Mario Fantin, Halina Cieplinska-Bojarska, José Paytubi and many others.

Mount McKinley. This year again the number of climbers on Mount McKinley has increased. There were 24 expeditions of which 17 reached the summit of Mount McKinley. A total of 113 climbers got to the top. None climbed the North Peak. The following climbed via the West Buttress: Horst Schindelbacher, Leo Schlömmer, Sturm Hilmar, Stefan Moser, Hanns Schell, Herbert Zefferer, Liselote Schell, Gerhardt Picheler, Walter Kutschera, Austrians, on May 26; Troy Reiner, Werner Leim- bacher, Albert Stachelin, Ray Genet, Ron Hallstrom, Greg Brown on May 29; Max Weibel, Mathis Rofler, Paul Keller, Swiss, on June 5; Jeff Elphinston, Michael Boss, George Breuer, Geraldine Croney on June 16; Hidetoshi Kobayashi, Takeshi Uebara, Yoshikazu Toyama on June 16 and Kazuo Baba, Todao Ookado, Kooichi Ooyama on June 19, all Japanese;, Thomas Park, David Campbell, Fred Camphausen, Wayne Ford, John Hawley, Horace Ory, John Otter on July 4; Rod Johnson, Eric Lindbergh, Pat Padden on July 11; two members of Senrei Alpine Club expedition, Japanese, in July; two members of Kamiichi Hosokai Expedition, Japanese, in July; Günter Plotz, German (started solo but joined the Army group which reached the top the same day), Clemens Lemke, Warren Gunther, Fernando Martinez, Thomas Cooper on July 29. Two expeditions climbed the West Buttress but descended Karstens Ridge and the Muldrow Glacier: Charles Rigden, Wayne Gates, Edward Conner, Dr. Gary Weinman on June 19 and Bob Watts, Donald Wycoff on June 22; Ray Genet, Gregory Craig, Paul Estes, Paul Taroslaw, Thomas Taylor, Walter Espenlaub, Ron Garrett, Albert Ballnick, Walter Jellin, Robert Carlson, Edward Martin, Bob Emrick, Lawrence Henry, Virginia Sherwood, Tom Ross on June 29 and Peter Gendel, Michael Gendel, Eberhard Hantsch on July 1. The following climbed the Muldrow Glacier- Karstens Ridge route: John Whisnant, Kurt Sontag, Lou Dawson, Bob Gathercole, Bob Pimentel, Timmy Lane, Kenny Williams on June 8; Ken Clanton, Charlie Sykes, Chip Morgan, Scott Hinkley, Jack Morrell, Don McDonald, High Zuker, Art Baker, Ted Browne, Horace Bone, Bill Sweeney, Bill Tombs on July 9 and George Hunker, Jeff Polack, Lyle Marchant, Ben Franklin, Laurie Barrott, Tim Byrnes, Sam Belk, Duane Stranahan, Tom Wetzel, Fred Menzer, Lee Hancock, David Ober on July 11; David Carrol, John Christie, Gregory Hayton, Douglas Sandwell on July 3. On July 1 William Clark, James Gordon, Francis Pedrizetti, Michael McGuire and Jeffrey Dial reached the top, having climbed the South Buttress. There were a number of emergencies which required the evacuation of climbers for the following reasons: 1 pulmonary edema, 4 injuries from falls, 1 sick, 1 abscessed tooth, 1 frostbite. The solo climber Plotz was helicoptered out, having lost his pack and run out of food! There were no fatalities. In the A.A.J., 1973, p. 403 we reported that Chris Chandler, Patrick Devorin, Ron Fear, Alex Murray, Robert Griswold and Leroy Kingland had reached the summit of Mount McKinley. In actual fact they were turned back a couple of hundred feet from the top by stormy weather.

NOTE: All dates in this section refer to 1973 unless otherwise stated

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