Asia, Hindu Kush, Afghanistan, Mir Samir

Publication Year: 1973.

Mir Samir. The Ulster Afghanistan Expedition made two new routes on Mir Samir (19,059 feet). Mick Curran, Trevor Mitten and I climbed the southwest couloir in July, 1971, with one bivouac on the way up and one on the descent. Although nowhere unduly difficult, it was subsequently found to be a death-trap. The south face was climbed by high-altitude leader John Anderson, Dick Jones and Mitten. On the descent they were caught in a thunderstorm, which avalanched the couloir below them. We also made the ascent of three unclimbed peaks in the Chamar valley. Bert Slader was the general leader of the expedition.

Philip Blake, Ulster