American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Hindu Kush, Afghanistan, Koh-i-Safed, Warmano Valley

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1973

Koh-i-Safed, Warmano Valley. The Tokyo Gakugei University expedition, led by Izomu Ikeba and Akio Yamada, had 11 members. Leaving Kabul on July 21, they crossed the Anjuman on the 30th and reached Base Camp at 12,500 feet in the Warmano valley on the 31st. On August 6 Hiroshi Shibata and Ikko Ohwada attempted Koh-i-Safed (19,688 feet) by its south ridge, getting to 18,700 feet. Their support party, Yusho Yami and Makoto Takeda, climbed P 5550 (18,045 feet), south of a col on the south ridge. The first pair climbed P 5178 (16,989 feet). The northwest party, Ikeba, Noroko Shibata, Aiko Arai and Hiroshi Yajima, went on from Camp II at 13,775 feet to a col between P 5340 (17,520 feet) and P 5341 and climbed the former. On the 9th the south ridge party with Akio Yamada and Kimura went up the right glacier of the south ridge and took the German ridge to the col and reached the summit snowfield of Koh-i-Safed. On the same day Ryoichi Kaneko, Yasuko Sato, Yamai and Katsutoshi Terasawa of the northwest party climbed P 5341 (17,523 feet).

Ichiro Yoshizawa, A.A.C. and Japanese Alpine Club

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