Asia, Hindu Kush, Afghanistan, Koh-i-Morsurq and Other PEaks, Suigal

Publication Year: 1973.

Koh-i-Morsurq and Other Peaks, Suigal. The members of the party were R.D. Barton, I.A. Napier, D.G. Peers, D. Robinson, J.G. Tyler and I. [.Editor’s note: All were first ascents except for those marked *, which indicates a new route, or marked **, which indicates a previously climbed peak. Nearly all peaks appear on Frey’s map. Note the difference in altitude given by Bolton for Koh-i-Morsurq (6075 meters or 19,- 931 feet), which is much lower than Frey’s (6435 meters or 21,112 feet).] Ascents made south of the Suigal: P 5386** (17,670 feet) on August 14 via west ridge by Barton, Tyler; Traverse south over P 4700 (15,420 feet), P 4900 (16,076 feet), P 5100 (16,733 feet) to P 5269 (17,287 feet) on August 14 by Robinson, Bolton; P 5050 (16,568 feet) and P 5000 (16,404 feet; both between P 5269 and P 5248) and P 5300 (17,389 feet; between P 5269 and P 5385) on August 15 by Robinson, Bolton; P 5014 (16,450 feet) via southwest ridge on August 14 by Napier, Peers; P 5200 (17,061 feet) via south gully and P 5500 (18,045 feet) via east ridge on August 15 by Napier, Piers (both between P 5014 and Koh-i-Askival) ; P 4257** (13,967 feet) on August 17 by Robinson; Koh-i-Askival* (19,- 259 feet) via east ridge on August 18 and 19 by Barton, Tyler; P 5600 (18,373 feet) via east-west traverse on August 18 by Napier, Peers (2 kms south of Koh-i-Askival); P 5800* (19,029 feet) via west-east traverse on August 19 by Napier, Peers (4 kms southwest of Koh-i-Askival) ; P 4860 (15,912 feet) via north ridge on August 22 Bolton (1st peak north of P 5000 mentioned above); P 5400 (17,717 feet) via west face on August 24 by Barton, Tyler (2 kms northeast of Koh-i-Ainshval) ; P 5580 (18,307 feet) via north ridge on August 25 by Barton, Tyler (northwest of Koh-i-Ainshval); P 5850 (19,193 feet) via north ridge on August 26 by Barton, Tyler (northwest of Koh-i-Ainshval); Koh-i-Mor- surq** (19,931 feet) via northeast face on August 26 by Robinson, Bolton; Koh-i-Ainshval (18,455 feet) via northeast face and traverse north over P 5500 (18,045 feet) and P 5300 (17,389 feet) on August 28 by Bolton; P 4500 (14,764 feet) on August 29 by Robinson (3 kms east of Koh-i-Ainshval); P 5350 (17,553 feet) via north face on September 1 by Barton, Tyler (1 km west of P 5386); P 4300 (14,108 feet) and P 4500 (14,764 feet) on September 2 by Bolton (4th and 3rd peaks north of P 5000); P 5248 (17,219 feet) via east ridge and traverse east of P 5050 (16,568 feet), P 5100 (16,733 feet), P 5000 (16,404 feet) and P 4600 (15,092 feet) on September 3 by Bolton. Ascents made northwest of the Suigal: Koh-i-Shoshgal** (15,863 feet) on August 9 via north face by Peers, Robinson; P 5200 (17,061 feet) via west ridge on August 24 by Robinson, Bolton (on a line between Koh-i-Shoshgal and Koh-i-Ainshval); P 5150* (16,897 feet) via east ridge on August 24 by Napier, Peers (between Divar-i-Saf and Surak-i-Sard) ; P 5699 (18,698 feet; this lies just to the west) on September 1 by Robinson, Napier; P 5600* (18,273 feet) via north ridge on September 5 by Tyler (1½ kms south of Koh-i-Chrebek); P 5650 (18,537 feet) via east face on September 6 by Barton (1½ kms southwest of Koh-i-Chrebek).

A. James Bolton, British Inter-Universities Mountaineering Expedition

* All these peaks may be located on Wolfgang Frey’s excellent map. P 5048 lies 8 kms east of Koh-i-Parshui; P 5010, 11 kms east of Koh-i-Tundy Shagai Sha; P 5412, 8 kms northeast of Koh-i-Tundy Shagai Sha; P 5228, 3 kms east of Koh-i-Parshui; P 5216, 5 kms east of Koh-i-Tundy Shagai Sha; P 5070, 12 kms northeast of Koh-i-Tundy Shagai Sha; P 5585, just north of Kotal Parshui. The “Shark's Teeth” have no altitudes on Frey’s map.