American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Hindu Kush, Pakistani-Afghan Frontier, M6, Mandaras Valley

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1973

M6, Mandaras Valley. An Italian expedition from Ascoli was led by Francesco Saladini and composed of Pinetta Teodori, Maurizio Calibani, Giuseppe Raggi, Giuseppe and Carlo Fanesi and Giancarlo Tosti. They ascended the last unclimbed 6000er of the Mandaras valley, M6 (20,140 feet). Base Camp was established at 14,100 feet at the head of the valley and Advanced Base on the principal glacier at 16,400 feet. High Camp was at 17,400 feet on the glacier that separates the west ridge of M5 from M6. The north ridge seemed the most feasible, rising some 2600 feet from the north col. Route preparation occupied the last days of July. A several-day attempt ended in a 19,350-foot bivouac when it dawned snowing on August 6. On August 9 Saladini and Teodori left their high camp at three A.M., reached the bivouac site of the previous attempt at eight and continued along the ridge to get to the top at 3:40 P.M. They bivouacked on the descent at 19,000 feet.

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