American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Hindu Kush, Pakistani-Afghan Frontier, Peaks in Wakhan and Zebak Regions

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1973

Peaks in Wakhan and Zebak Regions. The Polish Afghan Hindu Kush Expedition was composed of two groups: from Kraków-Lublin Stanislaw Biel, leader, J. Chmielewski, H. Cioncka, A. Janota, P. Jasinski, M. Kata, M. Kowalczyk, Z. Ryn, Z. Stepek, P. Taraszkiewicz, A. Tokarski, Jerzy Wala, Stanislaw Worwa, R. Zawadzki, R. Farat and A. Skoczylas; from Wroclaw Jerzy Wojnarowicz, leader, Stanislaw Aniol, T. Barbacki, R. Bebak, M. Bogucki, J. Ferenski, K. Glazek, K. Piotrowski and A. Sidoro- wicz. From August 25 to 29, 1971 they climbed together and made 15 ascents of peaks between 13,125 and 15,425 feet in the Salang region. Then the Wroclaw group entered the Qadzi Deh valley. They made the following first ascents of peaks between the Wakhan and Zebak regions: P c.5000 (c. 16,404 feet) from north on August 8 by Glazek; P c.5100 (c. 16,733 feet) from south on August 9 by Bebak, Ferenski; Kohe Syah (16,687 feet) from south on August 9 by Aniol, Wojnarowicz; Haram (c.17,390 feet) from south on August 23 by Glazek, Sidorowicz; two towers, Kohe Sakht (18,455 feet) and Diware Kalan (19,059 feet) from southeast on August 24 by Glazek, Sidorowicz; Gumbaze Yakhi (c. 19,030 feet) from north and on to Sahe Kalan (c. 19,225 feet) on October 1 by Glazek, Piotrowski; Kohe Zard via south face on October 1 by Ferenski, Bebak, Sidorowicz. Above the Qadzi Deh valley they climbed the following: Aspe Safed (c.21,325 feet) via north ridge on September 17 by Ferenski; Aspe Syah (c.20,505 feet) via northeast ridge from September 14 to 17 by Glazek, Piotrowski; peak near Wala Peak 124 via northeast ridge by Wojnarowicz, Ferenski, Bebak. Meanwhile the Krokow-Lublin group was exploring the Banba Tangi, Eshan and Sust valleys. In the Eshan valley Jasinski and Kowalczyk on September 8 climbed Kohe Lashkor (17,186 feet) while the next day in the Sust valley Janota and Tokar-ski climbed Myana Koh (16,975 feet). The peak numbered 421 by Wala and previously called Kohe Qala Ust is more correctly Kohe Kuhan (20,- 700 feet) and the east peak (20,670 feet) is Kohe Kuhan e Sarqi. An attempt from the Sust Glacier over the eastern flank of Makhrute Safed and the northeast ridge of Kohe Kuhan e Sarqi failed in bad weather. They climbed the following: Sakhe Sangi (17,300 feet; Wala Peak 449) via southwest ridge on September 18 by Cionccka, Ryn, Stepek, Wala; Sakhe Kuchek (17,744 feet; Wala Peak 448) from northwest on September 18 by Jasinski, Kowalczyk, Janota, Worwa, Zawadski; Makhrude Safed (19,- 193 feet) on September 26 by Cioncska, Ryn, Wala, Zawadski and again on September 27 by Ryn, Zawadski. In the Issik valley Chmielewski climbed P 5040 (16,536 feet), P 5112 (16,771 feet) and P 5464 (17,927 feet) on September 25. Chmielewski, Kata, Skoczylas and Tokarski climbed the east summit (19,948 feet) of Kohe Zemestan by its east ridge on September 29 and 30. The Khaspak valley divides into the Qalat and Syorpas valleys. There they made the following ascents: Kohe Copan (c. 16,400 feet) via west side on October 8 by Biel, Worwa; Diware Kalan (19,059 feet) via north ridge on October 10 by Jasinski, Kowalczyk; P 5250 (17,225 feet) via north ridge on October 9 by Zawadski, Stepek, Ryn, Farat; Kohe Dandan (c. 16,900 feet) via northwest ridge on October 9 by Stepek, Ryn; Kohe Sangi (c.18,210 feet) on October 10 by Zawadski, Ryn, Stepek; Cangale Syah (16,956 feet) on October 11 by Biel, Cioncka, Worwa; P 5000 (16,404 feet) from east on October 14 by Jasinski, Kowalczyk; P 4810 (15,781 feet) via northwest ridge on October 14 by Janota, Worwa, Stepek, P 4850 (15,912 feet) via east ridge by Cioncka, Wala and P 4992 (16,378 feet) via north ridge by Chmielewski both on October 15.

Adolf Diemberger, Österreichischer Alpenklub

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