American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Hindu Kush, Pakistani-Afghan Frontier, Koh-e-Keshnikhan Northeast Ridge

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1973

Koh-e-Keshnikhan Northeast Ridge. Our expedition was composed of P.A. Froidevaux, C. Reuille, A. Villiger de Lausanne and J.J. Asper, C. Dalphin, J.F. Gal, J. Loretz and me of Geneva. We had as our objective the fourth ascent of Keshnikhan by a new route, the northeast ridge. From Base Camp at 12,800 feet we moved up to Camp I at 15,425 feet over moraine, boulders and then glacier. To get to Camp II on the ridge at 18,000 feet we climbed a very steep slope, which got progressively steeper and was 70° at the top. From Camp II to III (20,350 feet) there were two 60° ice slopes. We fixed some 1650 feet of rope. The ridge ran at 45° from Camp III to the summit (22,162 feet). On July 16 Dalphin and Reuille reached the top, followed the next day by Gal and Villiger. A ten-day storm prevented attempts by the rest of us.

Marc Ebneter, Club Alpin Suisse

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