American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Hindu Kush, Pakistani-Afghan Frontier, Kohe Hevad, Kunkho-i-Kuchek, Kohe Bakhera, Ishmurgh Valley

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1973

Kohe Hevad, Kunkho-i-Kuchek, Kohe Bakhera, Ishmurgh Valley. Walter Giger, leader, Alfred and Hansruedi Koelz, Arnold Frauenfelder, Roman Boutellier, Jürg Reinhard, Hansjürg Wetter and I traveled to Kabul overland and by truck to Ishmurgh. We established Base Camp on the left side of the Ishmurgh Glacier on July 10. All of us except Alfred Koelz and Frauenfelder made the second ascent of Kohe Akademia (17,389 feet) by the northeast face on July 12. With one camp we all climbed Kohe Anoshah (18,209 feet) by its northwest face on July 16, also a second ascent. The next day H. Koelz and I made the second ascent of Kohe Spartakiada (17,061 feet). On July 18 nearly two feet of snow fell in Base Camp. We made the second ascent of Kohe Setara (19,882 feet) by a new route, the south ridge. Boutellier and Giger got to the top on July 22 and Frauenfelder, H. Koelz, Reinhard and I on the 23rd. The same six made the first ascent of Kohe Bakhera (west peak: 20,473 feet; east peak: 20,571 feet) by a 3000-foot couloir on the southwest face. We started at midnight and reached the col between the two summits at eight A.M. It took us from August 1 to 11 to make the first ascent of Lunkho-i-Kuchek (21,096 feet). With camps at 17,500 and 20,000 feet, we followed the northwest flank to the watershed between Wakhan and Chitral and then the southwestern ridge to the top. The first attempt failed because of another snowfall, but Boutellier, Giger, H. Koelz, Reinhard and I made it on August 11. Boutellier, Giger, H. Koelz and I made the second ascent of Ariana on August 15, bivouacking on the descent. On August 19 the same four made the fifth ascent of Kohe Hevad (22,471 feet) via the east face with two bivouacs.

Peter Rüfenacht, Akademischer Alpenclub Zurich

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