American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Hindu Kush, Pakistani-Afghan Frontier, Jurm I and II

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1973

Jurm I and II. The Jurm valley was the last valley in this part of the Hindu Kush to be visited by climbing expeditions. The highest peaks, Jurm I and II, lie near Awal. The mountains climbed by the Italians from Padua mostly lay on the ridge between the Jurm and the Urgunt-e-Bala valleys. They approached through Faizabad, Barak, Zebak, Qasi Deh and Fermandosi. Base Camp was in the Jurm valley at 13,950 feet. Despite much bad weather, they made the following first ascents: Koh-e-Past (Wala Peak 291a; 17,717 feet) on July 22 by Vittorio Lazzarino, Paoli Lion; Koh-e-Chard (Wala 288; 17,553 feet) on July 24 by Ugo Quintily, Lazzarino, Lion and Dr. Elide Veronese; Shal-e-Safid (Wala 286; 17,946 feet) on July 27 by Alfredo Dal Santo, Quintily; Koh-e-Dur (Wala 281a; 18,111 feet) on July 29 by Lino Bortolami, expedition leader, and Dal Santo; Kohe-e-Stara (the most difficult peak) (Wala 292, 18,176 feet) on August 1 by Bortolami, Lion; Koh-e-Jurm I (Wala 282; c. 19,685 feet*) and Koh-e-Jurm II (across the col from I and about 35 feet lower) on August 1 by Lazzarino, Dal Santo; and Koh-e-Sauze (Wala 291; 18,078 feet) on August 3 by all except Lazzarino. Lazzarino and the Afghan interpreter Bashir made the second ascent of Koh-e-Durang (Wala 289; 17,385 feet) on August 4.

Adolf Diemberger, Österreichischer Alpenklub

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