American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Hindu Kush, Pakistani-Afghan Frontier, Peaks near Noshaq

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1973

Peaks near Noshaq. Our expedition from Berchtesgaden was composed of Herbert Eglauer, Albert Steinbacher, Heini Brandner, Sepp Rasp, Roland Bannert, Manfred Hillebrand, Gerd Gsottschneider, Reiner Maier und Udo Blaes. On July 4 Hillebrand, Rasp and I climbed Aspe-Safed I (21,349 feet) from the north with camps at 17,000 and 19,500 feet. On July 7 Eglauer, Steinbacher, Brandner and Bannert made the first ascent of Aspe-Safed IV (20,145 feet). We climbed from the north up a 2300- foot 55° to 60° ice couloir to a col and thence up the northwest ridge to the summit. Because of bad weather we had two bivouacs. On July 10 Eglauer, Hillebrand, Gsottschneider and I made a ski ascent of Karposht-e-Yakhi (18,688 feet). The next day Steinbacher repeated the ascent with Blaes and Maier remaining 350 feet below the top. On July 15 Eglauer and Gsottschneider climbed 17,160-foot Rakhe Kuchek I by its south face, a new route. Eglauer went on alone to make the second ascent of Rakhe Kuchek II (17,390 feet). On July 16 Steinbacher and I got the middle peak of Noshaq (24,115 feet) with camps at 17,700, 20,350 and 23,000 feet.

Lorenz Heiss, Deutscher Alpenverein

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