Asia, Hindu Kush, Pakistani-Afghan Frontier, Noshaq

Publication Year: 1973.

Noshaq. A group of 53 Europeans, organized in Italy by Beppe Tenti with technical direction by Reinhold Messner, invaded the Qazi Deh valley and placed Base Camp at the foot of Noshaq. Climbing activities were concentrated on Kharposht-e-Yakhi (18,700 feet), climbed up its south side from Base Camp; Asp-e-Safed (21,677 feet) climbed from a Camp II in the 20,350-foot col between it and Noshaq; and Noshaq (24,580 feet). The latter was climbed via the west spur with camps at 18,000, 20,675 and 22,950 feet. On August 11 Messner reached the summit with Claudio Bergamo, Sergio Bigarella and Renato Mamini. The climb was repeated on August 15 by Frenchman Michel Parmentier, and Austrians Willy Ruprecht and Alfred Virant and Giuse Locana, who set an altitude record for Italian women.