American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Hindu Kush, Pakistani-Afghan Frontier, Noshaq, Southwest Face

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1973

Noshaq, Southwest Face. Our 11-member group wanted to make a ladies ascent of Noshaq. We were Janusz Kurczab, leader, Janucz Onysz- kiewicz, Wanda Rutkiewicz, Jan Holnicki-Szulc, Jan Lewicki, Andrzej Lapinski, Andrzej Marczak, Andrzej Sikorski, Krzysztof Zdzitowiecki, Alison Chadwick, English but resident in Warsaw and I. We drove by truck to Qazi Deh from Poland. We set up Base Camp on August 4. By the 13th we had two camps on the west ridge and two more below the southwest face of Noshaq. On August 14 Rutkiewicz, Holnicki-Szulc, Si-korski and Zdzitowiecki made the first ascent of Wala Peak 82 (19,521 feet) by its northeast buttress and on the 15th of Wala Peak 81 (19,620 feet), to which they traversed along the main ridge. From August 15 to 18 Lapinski, Marczak and Onyszkiewicz traversed from Aspe Safed I (21,349 feet) to Aspe Safed IV (20,145 feet) over all four summits. On August 16 Chadwick, Kurczab, Lewicki and I climbed Aspe Safed IV. This peak had been previously climbed only by the German expedition from Berchtesgaden a month before. From August 20 to 22 Holnicki-Szulc, Kurczab and Zdzitowiecki made the first ascent of the southwest face of Noshaq alpine-style. They bivouacked twice. On August 23 Rutkiewicz, Honicki, Sikorski and Zdzitowiecki got to the summit of Noshaq by the west ridge. On the 25th Chadwick, Marczak, Onyszckiewicz and I repeated the west ridge climb. This is an altitude record for Polish ladies.

Ewa Czarniecka-Marczak, Klubu Wysokogórskiego, Poland

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