American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Hindu Kush, Pakistani-Afghan Frontier, Noshaq

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1973

Noshaq. The Bulgarian Hindu Kush Expedition, led by Petr Kavrkov and composed of D. Petkov, K. Aleksiev, I. Vasilev, K. Dimcev, A. ZahaHriev, H. Džambazov, P. Georgiev, R. Savov, J. Stojanov, K. Petrov and D. Jirov, had a tragic fate. They were in the Qadzi Deh valley. Base Camp was established on August 18, 1971 at 14,750 feet. They planned an ascent of the Austrian (west buttress) route of Noshaq, but one group made a reconnaissance of the Japanese-Polish route of 1960, during which they climbed P 6300 (20,670 feet) between Noshaq and Aspe Safed. They established three high camps between August 19 and 27. On August 28 Dimcev, Vasilev and Zahariev left Camp III at 23,225 feet for the summit. At 24,000 feet Dimcev had to return to Camp III because of frostbite. Vasilev and Zahariev reached the summit, from which they signaled with rockets. They were never seen again. At five P.M. that same day another group led by Petkov arrived at Camp III. Georgiev and Petkov had inflamed throats and the leader from Base Camp ordered them all back or at least the sick ones. Not until the 30th did they descend towards Camp II, but Georgiev and Džambazov never made it to that camp. Petkov was left in Camp III with food and water. The leader had sent five porters up from Base Camp. On the 31st Petkov reported himself in bad shape at Camp III and on September 1 a porter with oxygen got to the cliffs below Camp III but could go no farther. He saw no trace of the missing climbers. In the next days porters did reach Camp III but found Petkov dead there.

Adolf Diemberger, Österreichischer Alpenklub

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