American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Asia, Nepal, Putha Hiunchuli

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1973

Putha Hiunchuli. The Seppyo Alpine Club Expedition was composed of Masahiro Kobayashi, Shuji Yasukawa, Kenzo Ishikawa, Satoshi Nara, Takashi Chigai, Hiroshi Aoki, Hidemitu Yamaguchi and me as leader. We placed Base Camp up the Kaphe Khola at 14,450 feet on March 24 and Camp I at 16,400 feet on March 28. We fixed 350 feet of rope below Camp II which we established at 17,900 feet on April 2. We traversed right, then up and left to Camp III (April 7) at 18,850 feet, fixing some 800 feet of rope. Temporary Camp IV was placed at 20,175 feet on April 13 up a 50° ice face where we fixed 3000 feet of rope. Camp IV at 20,850 feet was established on April 17. On April 18 Hiroshi Aoki and the Sherpa Ang Norbu climbed the 60° ice and rock of the south face where they had 4000 feet of fixed rope. They made the second ascent of Putha Hiunchuli (23,774 feet) by this new route up the south spur.

Hiroyasu Takahashi, Seppyo Alpine Club, Japan

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