Asia, Nepal, Dhaulagiri IV

Publication Year: 1973.

Dhaulagiri IV. The Japan Rock Climbing Society Expedition led by Akinori Otsu attempted Dhaulagiri IV from Base Camp at 13,500 feet in Kaphe Khola in the post-monsoon. They established Camps I at 15,775 feet on September 6, II at 17,400 on the 11th, III at 18,700 feet on the 20th, IV at 20,675 feet on the 29th, and V at 21,000 feet on October 3. They attempted the 65°, 1650-foot western ice wall of the ridge between Junction Peak and Gama Peak, but they gave up halfway up it. They returned to Camp IV and from there climbed up and on October 13 established Camp VI at 22,650 feet near Gama Peak. On October 14 Takeshi Fujika and Tetsuji Sato and two Sherpas crossed Gama Peak (23,453 feet) and continued as far as a small rock peak where the knife-edged ridge began. This was their farthest point on the route to Dhaulagiri IV. On October 15 Fujita and Sato with Yoichiro Anma climbed Dhaulagiri VI (23,246 feet).

Ichiro Yoshizawa, A.A.C. and Japanese Alpine Club