American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Europe, Grandes Jorasses and Aiguille de Leschaux, Mont Blanc Group

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1973

Grandes Jorasses and Aiguille de Leschaux, Mont Blanc Group. On August 11 Guido Machetto and I made the first ascent of the south face of the Grandes Jorasses. We climbed the 5000-foot-high face in three days, starting from the Ferret Valley. Our first bivouac was 500 feet above the base and the second 1300 feet below the summit. The new route is the longest face climb in the Mont Blanc group. On August 23 Miller Rava and I made the first ascent of the direttissima of the north-east face of the Aiguille de Leschaux. Our route is left of Cassin’s. We climbed the face in two days, starting from the Dalmazzi hut. The face is 2600 feet high and we bivouacked 350 feet below the top. It was very difficult free and artificial climbing.

Alessandro Gogna

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