AAC Publications - http://publications.americanalpineclub.org

South America, Chilean and Argentine Patagonia, Cerro Torre

Cerro Torre. The furor goes on unabated over the 1971 ascent of Cerro Torre by Cesare Maestri, in which the Italian climbers placed an enormous number of bolts with the help of a pneumatic drill. It will be remembered that in 1959 Maestri claimed the first ascent by the east face, north col and north ridge. In this climb he was accompanied by Toni Egger, who on the descent was swept off to his death by an avalanche. Over the years, more and more doubts have been expressed as to whether they had actually got to the top. Maestri’s 1971 ascent apparently did not end at the summit but on the shoulder below the final mushroom of ice, possibly 200 feet from the top. Mountain, 23, of September 1972 has devoted much of the issue to the Cerro Torre. Included is an article on Maestri’s climbs, one on the Anglo-Swiss attempt of 1972, and an interview with Maestri.