South America, Bolivia, Cordillera Real

Publication Year: 1973.

Cordillera Real. On April 25 Peter Hanson and I climbed an easy peak next to Huayna Potosí, Mamailloca (18,117 feet). On the 28th we two climbed the Aguja Negra (17,506 feet) in the Condoriri group by its south ridge, probably a new route, which involved a few pitches of rotten rock. On May 1 Hanson and I climbed Condoriri (18,556 feet) by the normal route. With Andy Denison I climbed Huayna Potosí (19,996 feet). We approached the south ridge from the Milluni (west) side, climbed over the south peak and traversed to the east ridge. On June 17 Rick Hoare from South Africa and I climbed Illampu and gained the west ridge from the cirque to the north. Jenny Davidson of New Zealand and I climbed Pirámide (c. 5500 meters or 18,045 feet) from the southeast.

Alan Dane Waterman