American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Bolivia, Illampu Group, Cordillera Real

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1973

Illampu Group, Cordillera Real. The members of the Imperial College Cordillera Real Expedition were Bruce W. Hooker, Nevelle P. Jordison, Paul J. McCartney, Stephen Ridgill, David P. Steel, Roger Scull, Richard W. Wroot, and I. Sad to say, Steel and Scull were killed as they descended from Illampu. They were near the top of the east face when apparently a cornice collapsed. Steel’s body was never found, but Scull was 600 feet from the summit where he had dug in after coming down from the top after the accident. He died from exposure before we could get to him. We made the following ascents: Makatanya (18,433 feet) via north ridge and Haltatahua (18,370 feet) via south flank on July 30 by Hooker, Wroot; Musketanta (18,463 feet) via north flank and Monte Triángulo (18,609 feet) via south face on July 31 by Hooker, Wroot; Casiri Este (19,510 feet) via west face and southeast ridge on August 8 and 9 by Hooker, Wroot; Viluyo III, II, I and unnamed (18,350, 18,390, 18,500 and 18,300 feet; northwest ridge, northeast ridge, west face and northwest ridge respectively; unnamed lies southeast of Viluyo III) traversed on July 30 and 31 by Ridgill, Bunting; Hankopiti VII (19,010 feet) via northwest face on August 8 by Bunting, Ridgill; Hankopiti VI and III (18,940 and 18,930 feet; northeast gully and face and east ridge) on August 9 by Bunting, Ridgill; Hankopiti IV (19,090 feet) by west face on August 10 by Bunting, Ridgill; Pico del Norte (19,955 feet) via southeast ridge on July 31 and August 1 by Steel, Scull; Hankopiti VII (19,010 feet) via northeast ridge and traverse to unnamed via southwest ridge on August 7 by Steel, Scull; Illampu (20,872 feet) via east face on August 18 by Steel, Scull; Buena Vista I (18,200 feet) via northwest ridge on August 4 by McCartney, Jordison; Buena Vista II (18,200 feet) via southeast ridge and Hankopiti I (19,249 feet) via southeast ridge on August 5 by McCartney, Jordison; Kimsakolyo (19,333 feet) via north ridge on August 6 by McCartney, Jordison; and Kunotahua II (19,300 feet; east of Kunotahua) via northeast ridge on August 11 by McCartney, Jordison.

Paul D. Bunting, Imperial College Mountaineering Club

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