American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Peru, Southern Peru, Chuquichanca and Pomachanca, Cordillera Vilcanota

  • Climbs And Expeditions
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  • Publication Year: 1973

Chuquichanca and Pomachanca, Cordillera Vilcanota. This is to amplify a note in AAJ 1972, p. 176. Mary Fulford, Fay Kerr, Esme Speakman and four other tramping friends from England set off from Limacpuncu on August 8, 1971, to the Kira Kira valley, near Socapata, between Chuquichanca and Pomachanca ranges. Three high peaks of the latter were climbed from here: (1) Padrehurko (easternmost, south of Abra Yanacaca, c. 17,330 feet) by Fulford, Kerr, Speakman on August 14; the following day by the same three (2) Colque Cruz de Pomachanca (east of the main central névé, about same height) by the west snow ridge from the col between it and Chocorrosi and traversing the summit to the east (the most rewarding climb of the expedition); and (3) Huamanlipani Grande (south of the névé, highest in range, c. 17,400 feet) and Huamanlipani Chico (its flat-topped west peak, near Mina Santa Rosa) on September 4 by Kerr. F. Kerr also climbed Chocorrosi (southeast of Hacienda Hapo Hapo, northwest of Colque Cruz, c. 16,570 feet) by the east face, an interesting rock scramble. Fulford and Kerr ascended Poycutoni by its south rock ridge leading from Abra Yanacaca on August 17. The expedition returned to Limacpuncu, except for Kerr who, on the 23rd climbed Quimsachata (three monoliths west of Poycutoni) by the north face from Quebrada Oquellorumi, and the next day the east and west summits of Huacarahu (last glaciated peak toward the east, 3 miles northeast of Poycutoni and beyond the main divide, c. 16,075 feet) and of Nevado Oquellorumi which is west of the latter and north of the Abra Oquellorumi that connects with the Punamayo valley and with Quichu. Also Pucararumi (south of the Abra) and the higher Jatunrumi, the next peak towards Poycutoni and to the south, were climbed from the west. On the former, a well-built cairn of some six feet was found. Yanasivi Chico I (c. 16,600 feet) and II, the most prominent granite peaks west and southwest of Yanasivi (P 5130 on map in AAJ 1971, p. 418) were climbed on August 31 and 30 from the deep lake Huaroscocha. Return was by the way of Quichu, a high shortcut route to the upper Chiamayo, Abra Umanquea, and out to Ollachea.

Fay C. Kerr, New Zealand Alpine Club and Olaf Hartmann, Göttingen University

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