American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Peru, Southern Peru, Hualca Hualca

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1973

Hualca Hualca. Our expedition from Bergamo was composed of Elena Bordogni, Andrea Facchetti, Mario Quattrini, Gianni Scarpellini, Giorgio Tofanini and me as leader. Porters were Macario Angeles and Natividad Demetrio. All of us on August 7 made the third ascent of Hualca Hualca (19,767 feet) by a new route, the north ridge. On August 10 Facchetti and I made the second ascent of Tacuriti (c. 19,450 feet) up its north slope and I continued alone to make the second ascent of neighboring Pucarumi (c. 19,350 feet) by its east ridge. On the Peruvian 1:100,000 map, Hoja Chivay, the words Nevado Sabancaya erroneously appear on these two peaks just south of Hualca Hualca and a second time properly as well farther south on the peaks clearly separate from the Hualca Hualca group. Peruvian maps of this region have been rather confused in their nomenclature, but the names as we use them are in perfect agreement with the usage of the people in the Colca valley whom we questioned. (See A.A.J., 1968, 16:1, p. 203 for what Culbert said.) Base Camp was at 16,900 feet at the foot of the east ridge of Hualca Hualca, which Culbert climbed on the first ascent. We arrived at Base on August 4 in a day’s march from Achoma in the Colca valley.

Santino Calegari, Club Alpino Italiano

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