American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Alpamayo, North Summit

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1973

Alpamayo, North Summit. Kanji Shimamura, Yoshio Takano and Kazuhiro Nishimura left Huaraz on June 1 and placed Base Camp at 13,775 feet at the tongue of the Bailey Glacier on June 3 and Camp I on the plateau at 15,900 feet. They abandoned the south ridge because of crevasses. On the 19th they reached a col on the west ridge and on the 20th traversed the northwest face to reach the north ridge and bivouac an hour below the north summit. This they reached on the morning of the 21st. They then descended straight to the west col with many rappels. The next morning they were walking on hard snow on the plateau when one broke through a hidden snowbridge and pulled the other two in. They fell 100 to 130 feet and stopped on an ice ledge. Takano was killed on the spot with head injuries. The next day the other two managed to extricate themselves from the crevasse and went to the Spanish Camp II, finding no one. They got to Camp I at five P.M. and Base Camp at four P.M. on the 24th, where the Spanish doctors took kind care of them. The Spaniards left to fetch Takano’s body on the 25th; they returned with it on the 27th.

Ichiro Yoshizawa, A.A.C. and Japanese Alpine Club

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