American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Artesonraju, Rinrahirca, Taulliraju, Chopicalqui, Huascarán

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1973

Artesonraju, Rinrahirca, Taulliraju, Chopicalqui, Huascarán. A 46-member Iowa Mountaineer expedition arrived in Peru on July 16. A group of 15 led by Sven Olof Swartling headed into the Quebrada Santa Cruz, where they climbed the following: Artesonraju (19,766 feet) via east ridge on July 23 by Larry Swanson, Dean Smith, on July 24 by Brent Miller, Art Maki, on July 25 by Bill Hooker, Tom McCrumm, Leo Slaggie and on July 31 by Swartling, John Sellers; Rinrahirca (19,062 feet) via northeast face (new route) on August 1 by Bernard Cabane, Swanson, via north ridge on August 1 by Miller, McCrumm, and August 2 by Hooker, Smith; Arhuekaka (17,717 feet) on August 3 by McCrumm, Miller; Pucrapucraraju* (18,996 feet) via northeast face on July 28 by Miller, McCrumm, Don Schaeffer; Taulliraju (19,128 feet) via northeast ridge on August 3 by Cabane, Swanson, Smith. The group left as bad weather set in. Meanwhile a group of 31 under the leadership of John Ebert entered the Quebrada Ulta. In late July Ron Fear, Jim Ebert, Don R. Thomas, Stuart Jones, Gilbert Harder and Charles Mullin climbed Chopicalqui (20,998 feet) from Base Camp in seven days. Harold Walton, Harold Goodro, Keith Newcomb and Stephen Adamson reached a point 500 feet from the top of Contrahierbas but were turned back by enormous crevasses. After the Ulta camp was evacuated, three camps were erected on the Garganta route on Huascarán. On July 29 Fear, Jim Ebert, Goodro, Adamson, Harder, Jones, Elean Robson, Walton and Kim Malville reached the summit.

E. John Ebert

*Pucrapucraraju was first climbed by Italians in 1960 who gave it the name of Giovanni XXIII. This name was not accepted by the Peruvian authorities and so it had been called merely P 5790. In the 1972 Iowa expedition, Victorino Angeles determined it was called locally Pucrapucraraju. It lies between Rinrahirca and the Pucahircas.

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