American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Chacraraju Este Attempt, Cordillera Blanca and Peaks in Cordillera Raura and Yauyos

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1973

Chacraraju Este Attempt, Cordillera Blanca and Peaks in Cordilleras Raura and Yauyos. The Kanazawa University Alpine Club expedition was composed of Toshimitsu Wada, leader, Kazumasa Kawachi, Masando Tanaka, Kasumaza Kochi and three others. They first entered the Cordillera Raura, where they climbed Condorcenca (17,454 feet) on June 4, Santa Rosa (18,758 feet) on June 6, Yarupa (18,725 feet) and Yarupa Norte (18,406 feet) on June 8. They next entered the Cordillera Yauyos, climbing Cotoní (19,086 feet) on June 25, Altarnio (17,586 feet; first ascent) on June 27, Llongote (18,966 feet) on June 30 and Quepala (17,586 feet) on July 4. They then moved to the Cordillera Blanca. On July 13 they climbed Huascarán Norte and on the 25th Pisco Este. On August 1 they set up Base Camp on the southeast side of Chacraraju. On August 16, during the attack on Chacraraju Este, a cornice broke at 19,000 feet; Kochi fell 2000 feet directly to his death but Tanaka slipped only 100 feet from the ridge and hung in mid-air until he died.

Ichiro Yoshizawa, A.A.C. and Japanese Alpine Club

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