American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Huascarán

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1973

Huascarán. The first Russian ascent of Huascarán was made on August 24, 1970 by Vladimir Kanunienko and Drs. Victor Gurmeniuk and Slava Romanoff. In 1972 a number of ascents were made. On July 12 Ned Coyl, Don Glantz, Mike Huitt, Mike Kelsey, Keith Moses, Dave Taylor, USA, and Hans Peter Duttle, Switzerland, reached the top. They were followed shortly by a party of Japanese and one Chilean; the Japanese were Kunimoto Kamachi, Hiroshi Koizumi, Naoki Toda and Yoshikazu Koizumi. On July 16 the Argentines Filippo Frasson, Eliseo Busto and Rafael Juárez reached the south summit. On the 18th the same three plus Héctor Cuiñas climbed Huascarán Norte. The Swiss Reto Oss and Werner Neff climbed Huascarán on July 22. Taylor reports that all groups experienced weather and avalanche problems. He said he had noted a change in climbing conditions and that even in early July there was evidence of sérac avalanches, deep snow and unseasonable weather. All the climbs reported here were by the Garganta route.

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