American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

South America, Ecuador, Sangay and Monja Chiquita and Taburnáculo, El Altar Group

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Climb Year:
  • Publication Year: 1973

Sangay and Monja Chiquita and Taburnáculo, El Altar Group. Our group was led by Erich Griessl and composed of Günter Hell, Rudolf Lettenmeier, Sepp Rieser and me. We left Munich on December 26, 1970. From Quito we reached the Indian town of Alao by the Río Bamba. After a four-day march we stood at the foot of Sangay. We climbed this active volcano on January 8, 1971 in doubtful weather by its 35° southeast slopes. The November, 1970 earthquake had changed the lava course and opened a new route. We were on snow from 14,450 to 16,750 feet, above which we climbed on volcanic ash to the summit (17,463 feet). We reached the huge horseshoe of El Altar in a two-day approach. From Base Camp at 14,450 feet we used the first good weather on January 16 to make the first ascent of the Monja Chiquita (16,667 feet), climbing its very corniced west ridge. It took several days to climb the 65° northwest face of Taburnáculo I (16,995 feet), which we completed on January 19. This summit is next to Monja Chiquita. After more bad weather, on January 25 we climbed Taburnáculo III (16,831 feet) by its 45° sérac-covered southeast face. This is the third summit beyond Monja Chiquita. After not being allowed access to Antisana Norte by an hacienda owner, we settled for an ascent on January 29 of Chimborazo by its northwest slope.

Peter Bednar, Sektion Oberland, Deutscher Alpenverein

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